Is private drive gated?
Street signage: noncombustible, reflective signage, 4" lettering
Combustible, not reflective or not present.
Ingress & Egress
All-season road conditions
- sand, gravel, etc.
- grasses up to 6" tall
- grasses 6"-12" tall
- grasses greater than 12" tall
- shrubs with leaves
- shrubs with needles
Select the ONE section that best describes the tree community
Hardwoods (trees with leaves)
Conifers (trees with needles)
Hardwood and conifers
Are plants clear of the structure
Ladder fuels(low lying branches and tall shrubbery
Propane/Gas tanks (excluding grill tanks)
Topography within 300' of structure
Gutters and eaves
Structure set back relative to slope
- pressurized hydrants <1000' of structure
- pressurized hydrants >1000'
- cistern/dry (maintained) <1000'
- cistern/dry (maintained) >1000'
- ponds, creeks, all season drafting
- no water
Organized response resources
Fixed fire protection
Low hazard - 0-72
Moderate Hazard - 73-102
High Hazard - 103-163
Extreme Hazard - 164-247
What does the Wildfire Hazard Rating Mean?
Low Hazard:Your home has a STRONG chance of surviving a low to moderate intensity wildfire without the influence of firefighters, which ultimately enables those firefighters more time to evacuate residents with special needs and fight the fire directly.
Moderate Hazard:Your home has a FAIR chance of surviving a low to moderate intensity wildfire on its own or with the influence of firefighters. Minor improvements will increase your home’s resistance to wildfire.
High Hazard:Your home is VULNERABLE to igniting during a low to moderate intensity wildfire. Firefighters may not be able to commit resources to save your home because of its vulnerabilities.
Extreme Hazard:Not only is your home VULNERABLE to ignition during a low to moderate intensity wildfire, its condition make it UNSAFE for firefighters to attempt to defend it. Remember that even small modifications can make the difference between losing or saving your home.
Most structures DON'T ignite from direct flame contact. Most structures ignite from radiant heat (heat that doesn't warm the intervening air but does warm objects) and embers (airborne cinders, sparks, burning pine cones, etc.).
Radiant heat will quickly warm a fuel such as fencing, decks, siding or the roof to a temperature in which it automatically ignites. Flames from the actual wildfire may be several dozen or hundreds of feet away, but the house is now burning. Radiant heat also passes through windows and may ignite materials inside a home, bypassing the exterior walls altogether.
Embers (also known as fire brands) also ignite structure fires. As fires burn, they suck in oxygen and push heated air upward. That column of rising air contains embers and tosses them in all directions, often several miles away from the main fire. If an ember lands on a combustible surface such as pine needles in a gutter, dry grass or wood shake shingles, then it could ignite a spot fire away from the main fire capable of growing into a new wildfire or burning a structure.
For information on making your home more resistant to wildfires, contact a Life Safety Educator from South Metro Fire Rescue (720-989-2271, LifeSafetyEducator@southmetro.org or www.southmetro.org).