Title Page

  • Document No.

  • Audit Title

  • Client / Site

  • Conducted on

  • Prepared by

  • Location
  • Personnel

  • REPORT SUMMARY

  • Items Not Operating

  • Major Concerns

  • Potential Safety Hazards

  • Deferred Cost Items

  • GROUNDS REMARKS

  • Service Walks/Driveways

  • Spalling concrete cannot be patched with concrete because the new will not bond with the old. Water will freeze between the two layers, or the concrete will break up from movement or wear. Replacement of the damaged section is recommended. Walks or driveways that are close to the property should be properly pitched away to direct water away from the foundation. Asphalt driveways should be kept sealed and larger cracks filled so as to prevent damage from frost.

  • Patios

  • Patios that have settled towards the structure should be mud jacked or replaced to assure proper pitch. Improperly pitched patios are one source of wet basements/crawl spaces.

  • Exterior Wood Surfaces

  • All surfaces of untreated wood need regular applications of paint or special chemicals to resist damage. Porch or deck columns and fence posts which are buried in the ground and made of untreated wood will become damaged within a year or two. Decks should always be nailed with galvanized, stainless steel or aluminum nails. Decks that are not painted or stained should be treated with a water sealer.

  • Grading And Drainage

  • Any system of grading or landscaping that creates positive drainage (moving water away from the foundation walls) will help to keep a basement and crawlspace dry. Where negative grade exists and additional backfill is suggested, it may require digging out around the property to get a proper pitch. Dirt shall be approximately 6" below the bottom sill and should not touch wood surfaces.

  • Flower beds, loose mulched areas, railroad ties and other such landscaping items close to the foundation trap moisture and contribute to wet basements. To establish a positive grade, a proper slope away from the houses 1" per foot for approximately 5-6 feet. Recommend ground cover planting or grass up to foundation.

  • Roof And Surface Water Control

  • Roof and surface water must be controlled to maintain a dry basement and crawlspace. This means keeping gutters cleaned out and aligned, extending downspouts, installing splash locks, and building up the grade so that roof and surface water is diverted away from the building.

  • Window Wells

  • The amount of water which enters a window well from falling rain is generally slight, but water will accumulate in window wells if the yard is improperly graded. Plastic window well covers are useful in keeping out leaves and debris.

  • Retaining Walls

  • Retaining walls deteriorate because of excessive pressure buildup in them, generally due to water accumulation. Conditions can often be improved by excavating a trench behind the retaining wall and filling it with coarse gravel. Drain holes through the wall will then be able to relieve the water pressure.

  • Retaining walls sometime suffer from tree root pressure or from general movement of topsoil down the slope. Normally, these conditions require rebuilding the retaining wall.

  • Railings

  • It is recommended that railings be installed for any stairway over 3 steps and porches over 30" for safety reasons. Balusters for porches, balconies, and stairs should be close enough to assure children cannot squeeze through.

  • Definitions

  • SATISFACTORY (Sat.) - indicates the component is functionally consistent with its original purpose but may show signs of normal wear and tear and deterioration.

  • MARGINAL (Marg.) - indicates the component will probably require repair or replacement anytime within five years.

  • POOR - indicates the component will need repair or replacement now or in the very near future.

  • ROOF REMARKS

  • ROOF TYPE LIFE EXPECTANCY SPECIAL REMARKs Asphalt Shingles 15-20 years Used on nearly 80% of all residential roofs requires little maintenance. Asphalt Multi-Thickness Shingles 20-30 years Heavier and more durable than regular asphalt shingles. Asphalt Interlocking Shingles 15-25 years Especially good in high-wind areas. Asphalt Rolls 10 years Used on low slope roofs. Built-up Roofing 10-20 years Used on low slope roofs, 2 to 3 times as costly as asphalt shingles Wood Shingles 10-40 years Treat with preservative every 5 years to prevent decay. Clay Tiles 20+ years Durable, fireproof but not watertight, requiring good subsurface base Cement Tiles. 20+ years Durable, fireproof but not watertight, requiring good subsurface base Slate Shingles 30-100 years Extremely durable, but brittle and expensive. Asbestos Cement Shingles 30-75 years Durable, but brittle and difficult to repair. Metal Roofing 15-40+ years Come in sheets and shingles; should be well grounded for protection from lighting certain metal must be painted. Single Ply 15-25 years New materials; not yet passed test of time. Membrane (mfgr's claim) Polyurethane with Elastomenic Coating 5-19 years Used on low sloped roofs

  • EXTERIOR REMARKS

  • Every effort has been made to evaluate the size of the service. Three wires going into the home indicate 240 volts. The total amperage can be difficult to determine. We highly recommend that ground fault circuit interrupters (G.F.C.I.) be connected to all outlets around water. This device automatically shuts the circuit off when is senses a current leak to ground. This device can be purchased in most hardware stores. G.F.C.I.'s are recommended by all others located near water, outside outlets, or garage outlets. Pool outlets should also be protected with a G.F.C.I.

  • If you do have G.F.C.I.'s, it is recommended that you test (and reset) them monthly. When you push the test button, the reset button should pop out, shutting off the circuit. If it doesn't, the breaker is not working properly. If you don't test them once a month, the breakers have a tendency to stick and may not protect you when needed.

  • Knob and tube wiring found in older homes should be checked by an electrician to insure that the wire cover is in good condition. Under no circumstances should this wire be covered with insulation. Recess light fixtures should have a baffle around them so that they are not covered with insulation. The newer recessed fixtures will shut off if they overheat. (No representation is made as to proper recess lighting fixtures).

  • Federal Pacific Stab-Lok Electrical® panels may be unsafe. See www.google.com (Federal Pacific) Aluminum wiring in general lighting circuits has a history of overheating, with the potential of fire. If this type of wiring exists, a licensed electrical contractor should examine the whole system.

  • Arc Vaults

  • In some areas arc faults are required for bedrooms in new homes starting in 2002. In some areas arc faults are required for all 120 Volt circuits that are not GFCI protected in new homes starting in 2009. Upgrade as desired for enhanced safely.

  • Reverse Polarity

  • A common problem that surfaces in many homes in reverse polarity. This is a potentially hazardous situation in which the hot and neutral wires of a circuit are reversed at the outlet, thereby allowing the appliance to incorrectly be connected. This is an inexpensive item to correct.

  • Each receptacle has a brass and silver screw. The black wire should be wired to the brass screw and the white wire should go to the silver screw. When these wires are switched, this is called "Reverse Polarity". Turning off the power and switching these wires will correct the problem.

  • Main service wiring for housing is typically 240 volts. The minimum capacity for newer homes is 100 amps though many older homes still have 60 amp service. Larger homes or all electric homes will likely have a 200 amp service.

  • Main service wiring may be protected by one or more circuit breakers or fuses. While most areas allow up to six main turnoffs, expanding from these panels is generally not allowed.

  • Cooling

  • Testing A/C a System and Heat Pump- the circuit breakers to A/C should be on for a minimum of 24 hours and the outside temperature at least 60 degrees for the past 24 hours or an A/C system cannot be operated without possible damage to the compressor. Check the instructions in your A/C manual or on the outside compressor before starting up in the summer. Heat pump can only be tested in the mode it's running in. Outside temperature should be at least 65 for the past 24 hours to run in cooling mode.

  • Temperature differential, between 14-22, is usually acceptable. If out of this range, have an HVAC contractor to examine it. It is not always feasible to do a differential test due to high humidity, low outside temperature, etc.

  • A/C CONDENSER COIL They should not become overgrown with foliage. Clearance requirements vary, but 2 feet on all sides should be considered minimal with up to 6 feet of air discharge desirable. If a clothes dryer vent is within five to ten feet, either relocate the vent or do not run when the A/C is running. The lint will quickly reduce the efficiency of the A/C unit.

  • Chimneys

  • Chimneys built with masonry will eventually need tuckpointing. A cracked chimney top that allow water and carbonic acid to get behind the surface brick/stone will accelerate the deterioration. Moisture will also deteriorate the clay four liner. Periodic chimney cleaning will keep you apprised of the chimneys condition. The flashing around the chimney may need revealing and should be inspected every year or two. Fireplace chimneys should be inspected and evaluated by a chimney professional before using. Chimneys must be adequate height for proper drafting. Spark arresters are recommended for a wood burning chimney, and chimney caps for fossil fuels. Unlined Chimney should be re-evaluated by a chimney technician. Have flue cleaned and re-evaluated. The flue lining is covered with soot or creosote and no presentation can be made as to the condition.

  • Not Evaluated

  • Cricket Flashing

  • Small, sloped structure made of metal and designed to drain moisture away from chimney. Usually placed at the back of a chimney.

  • Gutters And Downspouts

  • This is an extremely important element in basement/crawlspace dampness control. Keep gutters clean and downspout extensions in place (4 or more). Paint the inside of galvanized gutters, which will extend the life. Shortly after a rain or thaw in the winter, look for leaks at seams in the gutters. These can be recaulked before they cause damage to facia or soffit boards. If no gutters exist, it is recommended that they be added.

  • Siding

  • Wood siding should not come in contact with the ground. The moisture will cause rotting to take place and can attract carpenter ants. See page 34 for siding that have known problems, but are not always recognizable. Brick and stone veneer must be monitored for loose or missing mortar. Some brick and stone are susceptible to spalling. This can be caused when moisture is trapped and a freeze/thaw situation occurs. There are products on the market that can be used to seal out the moisture. This hold true for brick and stone chimneys also. Metal siding will dent and scratch. Oxidation is a normal reaction in aluminum. There are good cleaners on the market and it is recommended that they be used occasionally. Metal siding can be painted.

  • EIFS

  • This type of siding is a synthetic stucco and has experienced serious problems. It requires a certified EIFS inspector to determine condition.

  • Doors And Windows

  • These can waste an enormous amount of energy. Maintain the caulking around the frames on the exterior. Check for drafts in the winter and improve the worst offenders first. Windows that have leaky storm windows will usually have a lot of sweating. Likewise, well-sealed storms that sweat indicate a leaky window. It is the tighter unit that will sweat (unless the home has excess humidity to begin with).

  • Wood that exhibits blistering or peeling paint should be examined for possible moisture sources: roof leaks, bad gutters, interior moisture from baths or laundry or from a poorly vented crawl space. Some paint problems have no logical explanation, but many are a symptom of an underlying problem. A freshly painted house may mask these symptoms, but after you have lived in the home for a year or two, look for localized paint blistering (peeling). It may be a clue.

  • New glazing will last longer if the raw wood is treated with boiled linseed oil prior to glazing. It prevents the wood from drawing the moisture out of the new glazing.

  • Caulking

  • Many different type of caulk are available on the market today. Check with a paint or hardware store for the kind of application you need.

  • GARAGE REMARKS

  • Overhead Door Openers

  • We recommend that a separate electrical outlet be provided. Openers that do not have a safety reverse are considered a safety hazard. Small children and pets are especially vulnerable. We recommend the operating switches be set high enough so children cannot reach them. If an electrical sensor is present, it should be tested occasionally to ensure it is working.

  • Garage Sill Plates

  • Should be elevated or treated lumber should be used. If this is not the case, try to direct water away to prevent rotting.

  • Burners

  • Any appliance such as a heater furnace, furnace, etc. should have the flame a minimum of 18" above the floor. Any open flame less than 18" from the floor is a potential safety hazard. The appliance should also be protected from vehicle damage.

  • INTERIOR REMARKS

  • Plaster On Wood Lath

  • Plaster on wood lath is an old technique and is no longer in general use. Wood lath shrinks with time and the nails rust and loosen. As a result, the plaster may become fragile and caution is needed in working with this type of plastering system. Sagging ceilings are best repaired by laminating drywall over the existing plaster and screwing it to the ceiling joists.

  • Plaster On Gypsum Lath (Rock Lath)

  • Plaster on gypsum lath will sometimes show the seams of the 16" wide gypsum lath, but this does not indicate a structural fault. The scalloping appearance can be leveled with drywall joint compound and fiberglass mesh joint tape or drywall can be laminated over the existing plaster on the ceiling.

  • Wood Flooring

  • Always attempt to clean wood floors first before making the decision to refinish the floor. Was removers and other mild stripping agents plus a good waxing and buffing will usually produce satisfactory results. Mild bleaching agents help remove deep stains. Sanding removes some of the wood in the floor and can usually be done safely and once or twice in the life of the floor.

  • Nail Pops

  • Drywall nail pops are due to normal expansion and contraction of the wood members to which the drywall is nailed and are usually of no structural significance.

  • Carpeting

  • Where carpeting has been installed, the materials and condition of the floor underneath cannot be determined.

  • Appliances

  • (If report indicated appliances were operated, the following applies) dishwashers are tested to see if the motor operates and water sprays properly. Stoves are tested to see that burners are working and oven and broiler get hot. Timer and controls are not tested. Refrigerators are not tested. Most new dishwashers have the drain line looped automatically and may not be visible on the day of inspection. It is essential for the dishwasher drain line to have an anti-siphon break to prevent backflow. A drain line loop or Dishwasher air gap should be installed if found to be missing. No representation is made to continue life expectancy of any appliance.

  • Asbestos And Other Hazards

  • Asbestos fibers in some form are present in many homes, but are often not visible and cannot be identified without testing.

  • If there is reason to suspect that asbestos may be present and if it is of particular concern, a sample of the material in question may be removed and analyzed in a laboratory. However, detecting or inspecting for the presence or absence of asbestos is not a part of our inspection.

  • Also excluded from this inspection and report are the possible presence of, or danger from, radon gas, lead-based paint, urea formaldehyde, toxic or flammable chemicals and all other similar or potentially harmful substances and environmental hazards.

  • Windows

  • A representative number of windows are inspected.

  • Door Stops

  • All swinging doors should be checked for door stops. Broken or missing door stops can result in door knobs breaking through drywall or plaster.

  • Closet Guides

  • Sliding closet doors should be checked to see that closet guides are in place. Missing or broken closet guides can cause scratches and damage to doors.

  • Cold Air Returns

  • Bedrooms that do not have cold air returnee in them should have a 3/4" gap under the doors to allow cold air to be drawn into the hall return.

  • Window Frames And Sills

  • Window frames and sills are often found to have surface deterioration due to condensation that has run off the window and damaged the varnish. Usually this can be repaired with a solvent style refinisher and fine steel wood. This is sometimes a sign of excess humidity in the house.

  • Fireplaces

  • It is important that a fireplace be cleaned on a routine basis to prevent the buildup of creosote in the flue, which can cause a chimney fire. Masonry fireplace chimneys are normally required to have a terra cotta flue liner or 8 inches of masonry surrounding each flue in order to be considered safe and to conform with most building codes. During visual inspections, it is not uncommon to be unable to detect the absence of a flue liner either because of stoppage at the firebox, a defective damper or lack of access from the roof.

  • Woodburners

  • Once installed, it can be difficult to determine proper clearances for woodburning stoves. Manufacturer specifications, which are not usually available to the inspector, determine the proper installation. We recommend you ask the owner for paperwork, verifying that it was installed by a professional contractor.

  • Ventilation

  • Ventilation is recommended at the rate of one square foot of vent area to 300 square feet of attic floor space, this being divided between soffit and rooftop. Power vents should ideally have both a humidistat and a thermostat, since ventilation is needed to remove winter moisture as well as summer heat. Evidence of condensation such as blackened roof sheathing, frost on nail heads, etc. is an indication that ventilation may have been or is backed or inadequate.

  • Insulation

  • The recommended insulation in the attic area is R-38, approximately 12". If insulation is added, it is important that the ventilation is proper.

  • Smoke Detectors

  • Smoke detectors should be tested monthly. At least one detector should be on each level. CO detectors are not required by most states, but for safety reasons, are highly recommended.

  • Vapor Barriers

  • The vapor barrier should be on the warm side of the surface. Most older homes were built without vapor barriers. If the vapor barrier is towards the cold side of the surface, it should he sliced or removed. Most vapor barriers in the attic are by insulation and therefore, not visible.

  • Safety Glazing

  • Safety glazing requirements vary depending on the age of the home. Every attempt is made to identify areas where the lack of safety glazing presents an immediate safety hazard, such as a shower door. In some older homes it is difficult to determine if safety glazing is present, since the glass is not marked. Therefore, no representation is made that safety glazing exists in all appropriate areas.

  • Insulated Glass

  • Broken seal in thermopane/insulated windows are not always visible nor detectable due to humidity and temperature changes during the day. Other factors such as window covering, dirty windows, and lack of accessibility, personal property placed in front of the windows all affect the view of the windows at the time of the inspection.

  • BATHROOM(S) REMARKS

  • Stall Shower

  • The metal shower pan in a stall shower has a potential or probable life of 10-20 years depending on quality of the pan installed. Although a visible inspection is made to determine whether a shower pan is currently leaking, it cannot be stated with certainty that no defect is present or that one may not soon develop. Shower pan leaks often do not show except when the shower is in actual use.

  • Ceramic Tile

  • Bathroom tile installed in a mortar bed is excellent. It is still necessary to keep the joint between the tile and the tub/shower caulked or sealed to prevent water spillage from leaking through and damaging the ceilings below.

  • Ceramic tile is often installed in mastic. It is important to keep the tile caulked or water will seep behind the tile and cause deterioration in the wallboard. Special attention should be paid to the area around faucets and other tile penetrations.

  • Exhaust Fans

  • Bathrooms with a shower should have exhaust fans when possible. This helps to remove excess moisture from the room, preventing damage to the ceiling and walls and wood finishes. The exhaust fan should not be vented into the attic. The proper way to vent the fan(s) is to the outside. Running the vent pipe horizontally and venting into a gable end or soffit is preferred. Running the vent pipe vertically through the roof may cause condensation to run down the vent pipe, rusting the fan and damaging the wallboard. Insulating the vent pipe in the attic will help to reduce this problem.

  • Slow Drains

  • Slow drains on sinks, tubs, and showers are usually due to build up of hair and soap scum. Most sinks poppa can be easily removed for cleaning. Some tubs have a spring attached to the closing lever that acts as a catch for hair. It may require removing a couple of screws to disassemble. If you cannot mechanically remove the obstruction, be kind to your pipes. Don't use a caustic cleaner. There are several bacteria drain cleaners available. They are available at hardware stores in areas where septic tanks are used. These drain cleaners take a little longer to work, but are safe for you and your pipes.

  • Safety Hazards

  • Typical safety hazards found in bathrooms are open grounds or reverse polarity water. Replacing these outlets with G.F.C.I's are recommended.

  • Whirlpool Tubs

  • This relates to interior tubs hooked up to interior plumbing. Where possible, the motor will be operated to see that the jets are working. Hot tubs and spas are not inspected.

  • BASEMENT REMARKS

  • Basement/Crawlspace

  • Any basement/crawlspace that has cracks or leaks is technically considered to have failed. Most block basements/crawlspace have step cracks in various areas. If little or no movement has occurred and the step cracks are uniform, this is considered acceptable. Horizontal cracks in the third or fourth block down indicate the block has moved due to outside pressure. They can be attributed to many factors such as improper grading, improperly functioning gutter and downspout system, etc. Normally if little or no movement has taken place and proper grading and downspouts exist, this is considered acceptable. If the wall containing the stress crack(s) has moved considerably, this will require some method of reinforcement. Basements/crawlspace that have been freshly painted or tuckpointed should be monitored for movement. This will be indicated by cracks reopening. If cracks reappear, reinforcement may be necessary. Reinforcing a basement/crawlspace wall can become expensive.

  • Foundation (Covered Walls)

  • Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF'S)

  • Formwork for concrete that stays in place as permanent building insulation for energy-efficient, cast-in-place, reinforced concrete walls, floors and roofs.

  • Monitor

  • Indicates that the walls have stress cracks. But little movement has occurred. In our opinion, the crack should be filled with mortar and the walls monitored for further movement and cracking. If additional movement or cracking occurs, reinforcement may be necessary.

  • Have Evaluated

  • Vapor Barrier

  • Floors that are dirt or gravel should be covered with a vapor barrier.

  • Moisture Present

  • Basement/crawlspace dampness is frequently noted in houses and in most cases the stains, moisture or efflorescence present is a symptom denoting that a problem exists outside the home. Usual causes are improper downspout extensions or leaking gutters and/or low or improper grade (including concrete surfaces) at the perimeter of the house. A proper slope away from the house is one inch per foot for four to six feet. Expensive solutions to basement/crawlspace dampness are frequently offered. It is possible to spend thousands of dollars on solutions such a pumping out the water that has already entered or pumping chemical preparations into the ground around the house. When all that may be necessary are a few common sense solutions at the exterior perimeter. However, this is not intended to be an exhaustive list of causes and solutions to the presence of moisture. No presentation is made to future moisture that may appear.

  • Palmer Valve

  • Many older homes have a valve in the floor drain. This drain needs to remain operational.

  • Drain Tile

  • We offer no opinion about the existence or condition of the drain tile, as it cannot be visibly inspected.

  • Basement Electrical Outlets

  • We recommend that you have an outlet within 6' of each appliance. The appliance you plan to install may be different than what exists, therefore the inspection includes testing a representative number of receptacles that exist. It is also recommended to have ground fault circuit interrupts for any outlet in the unfinished part of the basement and crawl spaces.

  • PLUMBING REMARKS

  • Wells

  • Examination of wells in not included in this visual inspection. It is recommended that you well water checked for purity by the local health authorities and, if possible, a check on the flow of the well in periods of drought. A well pit should have a locked cover on it to prevent anyone from falling into the pit.

  • Septic Systems

  • The check of septic systems is not included in our visual inspection. You should have the local health authorities or other qualified experts check the condition of the septic system. In order for the septic system to be checked , the house must have been occupied within the last 30 days.

  • Water Pipes

  • Galvanized water pipes rust from the inside out and may have to be replaced within 20 to 30 years. This is usually done in two stages: horizontal piping in the basement first, and vertical pipes throughout the house later as needed. Copper pipes usually have more life expectancy and may last as long as 60 years before needing to be replaced.

  • Hose Bibs

  • During the winter months it is necessary to make sure the outside faucets are winterized. This can be done by means of a valve located in the basement. Leave the outside faucets open to allow any water standing in the pipes to drain, preventing them from freezing. Hose bibs cannot be tested when winterized.

  • Water Heater

  • The life expectancy of a water heater is 5-10 years. Water heaters generally need not be replaced unless they leak. It is a good maintenance practice to drain 5-10 gallons from the heater several times a year. Missing relief valves or improper extension present a safety hazard.

  • Water Softeners

  • During a visual inspection it is not possible to determine if water is being properly softened.

  • Plumbing

  • The temperature/pressure valve should be tested several times a year by lifting the valves handle. Caution: very hot water will be discharged. If no water comes out, the valve is defective and must be replaced.

  • Shut-Off Valves

  • Most shut-off valves have not been operated for long periods of time. We recommend operating each shut-off valve to: toilet bowl, water heater, under sinks, main shut-off, hose faucets, and all others. We recommend you have a plumber to do this, as some of the valves may need to be replaced or replaced. Once the valves are in proper operating order, we recommend opening and closing these valves several times a year.

  • Polybutylene Piping

  • This type of piping has a history of problems and should be examined by a licensed plumber and repaired or replaced as necessary.

  • MECHANICAL DEVICES MAY OPERATE AT ONE MOMENT AND LATER MALFUNCTION; THEREFORE, LIABILITY IS SPECIFICALLY LIMITED TO THOSE SITUATIONS WHERE IT CAN HE CONCLUSIVELY SHOWN THAT THE MECHANICAL DEVICE INSPECTED WAS INOPERABLE OR IN THE IMMEDIATE NEED OF REPAIR OR NOT PERFORMING THE FUNCTION FOR WHICH IT WAS INTENDED AT THE TIME OF INSPECTION.

  • CSST

  • Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing is an alternative to traditional black iron gas piping. It is continuous, flexible, stainless steel pipe with an exterior PVC covering.

  • HEATING SYSTEM REMARKS

  • Normal lives are:

  • GAS-FIRED HOT AIR - 15 to 30 years OIL-FIRED HOT AIR - 20 to 30 years CAST IRON BOILER - 30 to 50 years STEEL BOILER - 30 to 40 years COPPER BOILER - 10 to 20 years CIRCULATING PUMP (Hot water) - 10 to 15 years AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR - 8 to 12 year s HEAT PUMP - 8 to 12 years

  • PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE TIPS

  • 1. Foundation and Masonry

  • Basements, Exterior Walls: To prevent see page and condensation problems.

  • a. Check basement for dampness and leakage after wet weather

  • b. Check chimneys, deteriorated chimney caps, loose and missing mortar

  • c. Maintain grading slope away from foundation walls

  • 2. Roofs, Gutters and Eavestrough:

  • To prevent roof leaks, condensation, see page and decay problems

  • a. Check for damaged, loose, or missing shingles, blisters

  • b. Clean gutters, leaders, strainers, windows wells, drains. Be sure downspouts direct water away from foundation.

  • c. Cut back tree limbs

  • d. Check flashings around roof stacks, vents, skylights, chimneys as source of leakage

  • e. Check vents, lovers and chimneys for bird nests, squirrels, insects

  • f. Check fascias and soffits for paint flaking leakage and decay

  • 3. Exterior Walls

  • To prevent paint failure, decay, and moisture penetration problems

  • a. Check painted surface for paint flaking or paint failure. Check back shrubs

  • b. Check exterior masonry walls for cracks, looseness, missing or broken mortar

  • 4. Doors and Windows

  • To prevent air and weather penetration problems

  • a. Check caulking for decay around doors, windows, corner boards, joints

  • b. Recaulk and weatherstrip as needed. Check glazing putty around windows

  • 5. Electrical

  • For safe electrical performance, mark and label each circuit

  • a. Trip circuit breakers every six months and ground fault circuit interrupters (G.F.C.I.) monthly

  • b. Check condition lamp cords, extension cords and plugs. Replace at first sign of wear and damage.

  • c. Check exposed wiring and cable for wear and damage

  • d. If you experience slight tingling shock from handling or touching any appliance, disconnect the appliance and have it repaired. If lights flicker or dim, or if appliances go on and off unnecessarily, call a licensed electrician

  • 6. Plumbing

  • For preventive maintenance

  • a. Drain exterior water lines, hose bibbs, sprinklers, pool equipment for the fall

  • b. Draw off sediment in water heaters monthly or per manufacturer's instructions

  • c. Have septic tank cleaned every 2 years

  • 7. Heating and Cooling

  • For comfort, efficiency, energy conservation and safety

  • a. Change or clean furnace filters, air condition filters, electronic filters as needed

  • b. Clean and service humidifier. Check periodically and annually

  • Have oil burning equipment serviced manually

  • 8. Interior

  • General house maintenance

  • a. Check bathroom tile joints, tub grouting and caulking. Be sure all tile joints in bathrooms are kept well sealed with tile grout to prevent damage to walls, floors, and ceilings below

  • b. Close crawl vents in winter and open in summer

  • c. Check underside roof for water stains, leaks, dampness & condensation, particularly in attics and around chimneys

  • 9. Know the Location of:

  • - Main water shutoff valve

  • - Main emergency shutoff switch for the heating system

  • - Main electrical disconnect or breaker

The templates available in our Public Library have been created by our customers and employees to help get you started using SafetyCulture's solutions. The templates are intended to be used as hypothetical examples only and should not be used as a substitute for professional advice. You should seek your own professional advice to determine if the use of a template is permissible in your workplace or jurisdiction. You should independently determine whether the template is suitable for your circumstances.